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Ise-Shima and Iga: Tracing the Miketsukuni Route From Sea to Clay

Ise-Shima and Iga: Tracing the Miketsukuni Route From Sea to Clay

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Cradled by forested mountains and the clear waters of Ago Bay, Mie Prefecture’s Ise-Shima region has long been known for its divine blessings and rich food culture. In ancient times this coastal area was known as a “Miketsukuni” - a region that supplied seafood, salt, and other local specialties to the Imperial Court in Kyoto.

For centuries, Ise-Shima thrived as part of Japan’s sacred heartland - home to Ise Jingu, the Grand Shrine that honors the sun goddess Amaterasu, nourished by the bounty of the sea and the devotion of its people. On the route between Ise-Shima and Kyoto lies Iga, a town famed as the birthplace of ninja, and is alive with the legacy of pottery and the history of an ancient castle town.

This three-day model course through Ise-Shima and Iga invites travelers to experience the enduring harmony of Mie’s sea, spirit, and the lively food culture it comes with.

Day One

Ama Hut Hachiman Kamado: Women One with the Sea

The journey through this Miketsukuni begins at Ama Hut Hachiman Kamado in the port town of Osatsucho, where guests can meet the legendary ama (women divers) of Ise-Shima while enjoying fresh-caught seafood.

Seated around a charcoal hearth, visitors can savor freshly grilled seafood - including abalone, turban shell, and seasonal fish - while hearing stories of the ama’s centuries-old traditions and even joining in to dance with them. The experience is more than a meal; it’s a glimpse into the respect and rhythm of life the people of Ise-Shima have long established with the ocean.

Katsuo no Tempaku: The Art of Katsuobushi

Down the coast, Katsuo no Tempaku offers a rare chance to step inside a working katsuobushi smokehouse - one of few remaining that still carefully smoke bonito by hand. Here, locally caught bonito fillets are slowly smoked over burning oak, transforming into the hardened, aromatic blocks that form the foundation of Japanese cuisine. During the Ibushi-goya experience, guests can learn about the delicate art of curing fish and have a chance to shave the katsuobushi for themselves. The freshly shaved flakes are rich, smoky, and packed with umami, and a delicacy to enjoy over a bowl of freshly cooked rice and drizzled with soy sauce. It’s a rare, immersive look into the building blocks of Japan’s culinary soul.

Stay Your Way: An Evening in Mie

From artfully designed seaside resorts to historic landmarks, Ise-Shima and its neighboring towns offer plenty of top-tier accommodations. Whether you’re looking for classic luxury or an opportunity to get to know Mie more intimately, the region has plenty of accommodation options to fit your travel style.

Shima Kanko Hotel

A timeless symbol of Japanese hospitality, Shima Kanko Hotel overlooks the shimmering waters of Ago Bay. Renowned long before the G7 Summit, Shima Kanko Hotel saw its reputation further elevated after hosting the event in 2016, reaffirming its status as a symbol of refined coastal elegance. Art-lined corridors and spacious grounds showcase timeless hospitality and the local beauty of Ise.

The hotel’s renowned French fine dining restaurant La Mer, led by Michelin-starred Chef Hiroe Higuchi, highlights Ise-Shima’s incredible seafood as well as regional specialties such as Matsusaka beef - one of Japan’s three premier Wagyu brands. It’s famous for its abalone steak, but all of its food is extraordinary - during the G7 Summit, the Ise lobster bisque was presented to world leaders, where it drew enthusiastic praise.

Amanemu

Part of Aman’s global collection of destination sanctuaries, Amanemu fuses ryokan-inspired architecture with contemporary minimalist design. A series of villas and suites, each room features private mineral-rich onsen baths, while expansive terraces open to a peaceful panorama of Ago Bay. For guests looking for an elevated hotel experience, Amanemu offers restorative quiet and an exquisite immersion into Ise-Shima.

COVA KAKUDA

For travelers seeking a connection to the local community while staying in luxury, COVA KAKUDA offers a stylish boutique experience. The accommodation occupies a building transformed from former pearl-farming facilities, a structure deeply tied to the area’s heritage. Guests can opt-in for various activities, including water sports on the resort’s private waters or community activities. COVA KAKUDA also offers full-course fine dining that takes advantage of local ingredients, prepared intimately within its premises. Along the quiet shores of Ago Bay, the property is the perfect example of balancing luxury stay and sustainability.

MOKU ISESHIMA

Located on the small island of Masakijima in Ago Bay, MOKU ISESHIMA is a villa-style accommodation that invites the tranquility of its natural surroundings inside. Large windows and an infinity pool fuse the hotel with the view of the bay, and the hotel is limited to one party per evening for utmost privacy and immersion. The experience is designed to slow time - an elegant counterpoint to the day’s coastal adventures.

Nemu Resort

For travelers feeling peckish or seeking a relaxing midday pause, Nemu Resort offers a serene interlude surrounded by the calm scenery of Ago Bay. Its restaurants celebrate Mie’s natural abundance, serving seasonal seafood and local meats and vegetables prepared with contemporary touch. Enjoy a light lunch at both the spacious Restaurant Satoumi or The Lobby Lounge, while overlooking the expansive golf course.

Day Two

Miki Pearl Extraction Experience

After a relaxing evening, start the next morning with an experience unique to Ise-Shima. At Pearl Miki, visitors of all ages can make their own accessory to take home. Working with the local pearl farmers, visitors can enjoy first-hand the natural beauty of Ise-Shima, all while learning about the culture of Mie’s pearl cultivation.

Ise Jingu and the Streets of Oharaimachi

While in Ise, don’t miss out on a visit to the spiritual heart of Japan - Ise Jingu, a complex of 125 shrines dedicated to Amaterasu Omikami, the sun goddess and ancestral deity of the Imperial family. A path of towering cedars leads to the Inner Shrine, where visitors can sense the quiet power and presence that have inspired countless pilgrimages.

Just outside the shrine are the lively Oharaimachi and Okage Yokocho districts, preserving the charm of Edo-period pilgrimage routes. Wooden facades, sweet shops and teahouses line the bustling streets, alluring visitors with local delights like Akafuku mochi or Ise udon.

Nipponia Hotel Iga Ueno Castle Town

Heading inland to the cultural town of Iga, Nipponia Hotel Iga Ueno Castle Town offers a stay steeped in history. Housed in a beautifully restored merchant residence, it retains the quiet charm of Edo-era architectural craftsmanship - wooden beams, earthen walls and artful courtyards. The locally inspired dining is worthy of a stay in and of itself; incorporating phenomenal ingredients such as Iga Beef and fresh-caught fish, the thoughtful French tasting menu pairs well with Iga’s famous local sake.

Day Three

Nagatanien Iga Main Store

A trip to Iga is not complete without exploring its legacy in pottery. Visitors can explore the timeless craft of Iga-yaki, earthenware beloved for its strength and rustic charm. At the Nagatanien Iga Main Store, witness the historic 16-level climbing kiln that was created to produce their beloved donabe rice pots in large quantities.

The mineral-rich local clay and extremely high-temperature kilns of Iga ware produces cookware that enhances the flavor and umami of each dish, as well as unique, fiery-red and green-glass designs. The best-selling donabe pots, as well as the more artistic tableware, make for great souvenirs for your kitchen table.

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